Elsie de Wolfe, also known as Lady Mendel, (December
20, c. 1859 – July 12, 1950) was an American actress and interior decorator.
Elsie de Wolfe
Born in New York City, de Wolfe was acutely
sensitive to environment from her earliest years, and became one of the first
women interior designers, replacing heavy Victorian styles with light, intimate
effects and uncluttered room layouts. Her marriage to English diplomat Sir
Charles Mendlwas seen as one of convenience, though she was proud to be called
Lady Mendl, and her lifelong companion was Elisabeth Marbury, with whom she
lived in New York and Paris. De Wolfe was a prominent social figure, who entertained
in the most distinguished circles.
According to The New Yorker, "Interior design
as a profession was invented by Elsie de Wolfe". She was certainly the
most famous name in the field until the 1930s, but the profession of interior
decorator/designer was recognized as a promising one as early as 1900, five
years before she received her first official commission, the Colony Club in New
York. During her married life (from 1926 until her death in 1950), the press
often referred to her as Lady Mendl.
A room designed by Elsie de Wolfe (color photograph from The House in Good Taste, 1913)
Among de Wolfe's distinguished clients were Amy
Vanderbilt, Anne Morgan, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor, and Henry Clay and
Adelaide Frick. She transformed the interiors of wealthy homes from dark wood,
heavily curtained palaces into light, intimate spaces featuring fresh colors
and a reliance on 18th-century French furniture and accessories. She was
nominal author of the influenceal 1913 book The House in Good Taste.
In her autobiography, de Wolfe — born Ella Anderson
de Wolfe and the only daughter of a Canadian-born doctor — called herself a
"rebel in an ugly world." Her sensitivity to style and color was
acute from childhood. Arriving home from school one day, she found her parents
had redecorated the drawing room:
"She ran [in] ... and looked at the walls,
which had been papered in a [William] Morris design of gray palm-leaves and
splotches of bright red and green on a background of dull tan. Something
terrible that cut like a knife came up inside her. She threw herself on the
floor, kicking with stiffened legs, as she beat her hands on the carpet.... She
cried out, over and over: ‘It's so ugly! It's so ugly.’"
Hutton Wilkinson, president of the Elsie de Wolfe
Foundation, clarified that many things de Wolfe hated, such as "pickle and
plum Morris furniture," are prized today by museums and designers.
"De Wolfe simply didn't like Victorian, the high style of her sad
childhood," Wilkinson wrote, "and chose to banish it from her design
vocabulary."
De Wolfe's first career choice was that of actress.
She originally appeared with the Amateur Comedy Club in New York City as Lady
Clara Seymour in A Cup of Tea (April 1886) and as Maude Ashley in Sunshine
(December 1886), a one-act comedy by Fred W. Broughton. Her success led to a
full-time theatrical career, making her professional debut in Sardou's
Thermidor in 1891, in which she played the role of Fabienne with
Forbes-Robertson. In 1894 she joined the Empire Stock Company under Charles
Frohman. In 1901 she brought out The Way of the World under her own management
at the Victoria Theatre, and later toured the United States in the role. On
stage, she was neither a total failure nor a great success; one critic called
her "the leading exponent of the peculiar art of wearing good clothes
well." She became interested in interior decorating as a result of staging
plays, and in 1903 she left the theater to launch a career as a decorator.
Undoubtedly one of the first interior designers,
Elsie de Wolfe is considered by some to have invented the occupation, although
evidence reveals the profession existed before she made her considerable name.
Through her efforts, American homes were introduced to a succession of
sophisticated yet simple ideas, generally based on her preference for late
18th-century French style.
Many elements aided her in becoming such an
influential figure in the emerging field — her social connections, her
reputation as an actress and her success in decorating the interior of the
Washington Irving House, the residence she shared with her close friend, Elisabeth
Marbury.
Preferring a brighter scheme of decorating than was
fashionable in Victorian times, she helped convert interiors featuring dark,
heavy draperies and overly ornate furnishings into light, soft, more feminine
rooms. She made a feature of mirrors, which both illuminated and expanded
living spaces, brought back into fashion furniture painted in white or pale
colors, and indulged her taste for chinoiserie, chintz, green and white
stripes, wicker, trompe-l'oeil effects in wallpaper, and trelliswork motifs,
suggesting the allure of the garden. As de Wolfe claimed: "I opened the
doors and windows of America, and let the air and sunshine in." Her
inspiration came from 18th-century French and English art, literature, theater,
and fashion.
De Wolfe's taste was also practical, eliminating in
her schemes the clutter that occupied Victorian homes, enabling people to
entertain more guests comfortably. She also popularized the chaises longue,
faux-finish treatments, and animal print upholstery.
In 1905, Stanford White, the architect for the
Colony Club and a longtime friend, helped de Wolfe secure the commission for
its interior design. The building, located at 120 Madison Avenue (near 30th
Street), would become the premier women's social club on its opening two years
later, much of its appeal owing to the interiors de Wolfe arranged. Instead of
the heavy, masculine overtones then pervasive in fashionable interiors, de
Wolfe used light fabric for window coverings, painted walls pale colors, tiled
the floors, and added wicker chairs and settees. The effect centered on the
illusion of an outdoor garden pavilion. (The building is now occupied by the
American Academy of Dramatic Arts.) The success of the Colony Club proved a
turning point in her own life and career, launching her fame as the most
sought-after interior decorator of the day.
Elsie de Wolfe in Red Cross volunteer uniform, from a 1919 publication.
Over the course of the next six years, de Wolfe
designed interiors for many prestigious private homes, clubs, and businesses on
both the East and West coasts. By 1913, her reputation had grown so that her
studio took up an entire floor of offices on 5th Avenue. That year she received
her greatest commission — from coal magnate Henry Clay Frick, one of the
richest men in America at the time.
Thus it can be concluded that undoubtedly one of the
first interior designers, Elsie de Wolfe is considered by some to have invented
the occupation, although evidence reveals the profession existed before she
made her considerable name.
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